East Neuk of Fife
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My first day in Fife it was pouring with rain. I spent the morning
at the Pittenweem Arts Festival, running through the rain between
the many galleries and other arts venues all over the village. By
noon, I'd had enough rain and left to check into the Honeypot
B&B in Crail, a few miles east. The weather had cleared by the
next morning, and the views across the Firth of Forth were
spectacular. |
The tiny and picturesque harbour in Crail still houses working
fishing boats, along with some pleasure craft. |
Here's one of the fishing boats - or, more accurately, lobster boats
- with the local rowing club's rowboat passing by. |
Edinburgh
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The National Gallery on the Mound has a huge collection of art -
Scottish and from many other countries. |
Deaconess Gardens, in the University District, just across the
street from the Kenneth MacKenzie B&B I stayed at. The Kirk o'
Field church and Salisbury Crags form the background for the tiny
park. |
Old Infirmary Street in the University District |
Fleshmarket Close leads from Waverly Station up to Cockburn Street -
interestingly, Fleshmarket Close was the book by Ian Rankin
which introduced me to Inspector Rebus, so I was pleased to discover
I was on the Close as I carried my bags from the station to the
B&B. |
On Sunday night I took the "City of the Dead" tour - very
entertaining... |
... and it ends in Greyfriars Kirkyard in the Covenanters' Prison,
the only way you can get into that portion of the graveyard, reputed
to be the most haunted place in Scotland. |
Greyfriars is a fascinating place to wander around. There are about
450 tombstones and monuments in the graveyard, but an estimated
450,000 people were buried there over the centuries - so many that
the graveyard is now about 10 feet higher than the surrounding
streets. |
The 15th century Flodden Wall runs through Greyfriars. That's Heriot
School through the archway. |
In ten visits to Edinburgh, this was the first time I'd had a chance
to wander through the New Town, which was built in the Georgian
Period - 18th century - to allow the rich to escape the crowding of
the Old Town along the Royal Mile and within the Flodden Wall. |
Long rows of nearly identical terraces (we'd call them "row
houses") characterize Georgian cities. I visited the
Photography Centre on Great King Street, above. |
On Monday I took the Inspector Rebus Tour, which led around the
University and St. Leonards' areas, home to DI John Rebus, star of
Ian Rankin's series of books. Oddly, at the end of the tour I found
myself standing across the street from my B&B - I'd been in
Rebus' stomping grounds the whole time without realizing it. |
Deacon Brodie's Tavern - the good Deacon was the prototype for
Robert Louis Stevenson's book Dr. Jekyl and Mr. Hyde. A
deacon of the church and locksmith by day, at night he used extra
copies of the keys to locks he'd installed in the New Town to burgle
his customers' houses. |
Waverly Park Gardens from North Bridge |
The tenements on the Royal Mile from The Mound - the buildings could
be as tall as 12 stories, extending up and down from the Royal Mile
entrance at the middle. The stands for the Military
Tattoo can be seen behind the buildings to the right. |
Looking up the Royal Mile in the evening light, past the Camera
Obscura to the Castle. |
With the Festival Fringe in full swing, the Royal Mile is packed all
day and well into the night. |
The Royal Museum of Scotland is well worth a few hours' visit. I
spent all of Tuesday morning in the museum, before leaving to meet
up with the Scouts. |
The large central atrium is lined with all manner of exhibits,
called "Window on the World" - a little of everything from
the museum's collections. |
The Natural History hall has a display of aquatic animals, from
dolphins to hippos. |
The Royal Oak pub is one of the few which still feature live
traditional music. |
Often mis-called "Arthur's Seat", the Salisbury Crags can
be seen from all over Edinburgh. Arthur's Seat is actually the
pointed mountain a few miles further away. |
The Scott Memorial and Waverly Hotel |
South Bridge, with the University building on the left. |
The spire of St. Giles Cathedral is said to represent either the
Crown of Thorns or a traditional Scottish crown. Either way, it's a
distinctive landmark on the Royal Mile. |
Merchant Street at Candlemakers Row, viewed from Greyfriars Kirkyard |
Victoria Street leads from the Royal Mile area down to Grassmarket. |
The Edinburgh Festival Fringe
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The Edinburgh
International Festival was established to bring international music
and art to Edinburgh during the post-war period. Over time, less
formal (and perhaps weirder) entertainment grew up around the fringe
of the main Festival -and the Festival Fringe was born. Now, the
Fringe is an event in itself, presenting thousands of acts and
exhibits in hundreds of venues throughout Edinburgh and the entire
month of August. The pictures below show just a few of the sorts of
things one can find at the Fringe. |
Acrobats... |
... jugglers ... |
... more jugglers ... |
... and still more jugglers. |
Many of the plays and performances are promoted by having the
players put on mini-previews up and down the Royal Mile. |
A magician - from Vancouver, Canada, of all places... |
This group of Scottish Traditional ("trad") musicians were
promoting their regular show and selling CDs... |
... as was this a capella group of college girls. |
A sand sculptor practices his art outside the Tolbooth Kirk |
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